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An Easier Way to Start Drawing Every Day

daily drawing habit

The moment you tell yourself, “I need to draw more,” the process can suddenly feel pressured, important, loaded with expectations… and strangely less enjoyable.

Drawing becomes “Art.”

The sketchbook becomes a test.

Every blank page starts quietly asking: “Is this good enough?”

And often, that pressure arrives before the pencil has even touched the paper.

Recently, Kathy emailed me describing something very similar. She explained that once she actually begins drawing, she quickly loses herself in the process and enjoys it enormously. The challenge wasn’t really drawing itself; it was getting started.

The search for the “perfect” subject or composition had become so overwhelming that it was preventing the simple act of drawing in the first place.

So I’d like to suggest an alternative approach: stop thinking of it as drawing and start thinking of it as observing.

The moment you shift into observation, a lot of the pressure disappears. There’s no longer the expectation that something has to become a finished piece of art. You’re simply noticing things.

You might observe the colour shift within a shadow.

The way fabric folds across the arm of a chair.

The shape of a reflected highlight on a mug.

Or you might simply experiment with a new material or pencil without any expectation of producing something “good.”

There’s a freedom in that mindset because the work no longer feels as though it needs to be framed, judged, or critiqued. The sketchbook becomes a place for curiosity rather than performance.

And really, that’s what drawing has always been: observation made visible.

By reframing it this way, you quietly remove the weight of the capital “D” in Drawing.

Instead of thinking: “I’m going to make a good drawing.” Try thinking: “I’m just going to fill one page with observations.”

And then you get to unlock a sense of frictionless creating; some of the most valuable sketchbooks are visually messy but mentally free.

Continue ReadingAn Easier Way to Start Drawing Every Day

On the Wisdom of Colour Schemes

colour-palette-acrylic-exercises

A student emailed me last week (hey, Vicki!) with a problem I think most painters face.

She was stuck in that difficult space between wanting to paint and overthinking every decision about what to actually paint.

That uncertainty can easily stop your enthusiasm to get back to the easel.

To break the cycle, she decided on a simple idea.

blue-jug-painting

Return to the same object and paint it in different colour ways, using the blue coffee jug from the Still Life E-book as a familiar starting point.

This is actually a brilliant way to learn.

When you remove the anxiety of constantly searching for new subjects, your attention can move onto the real foundations of painting.

If you’re in a similar situation, here are some colour palettes you can use to develop your painting skills without constantly having to find a new subject to paint.

A simple object becomes familiar territory

When you’re painting the same jug over and over again, you can practise ellipses and shadow mapping. You begin to instinctively understand the proportions of the object. Your hand becomes steadier because you are solving the same visual problems repeatedly rather than looking for new ones every session.

Then the colour schemes themselves become the lesson.

Burnt Umber + White

Warm and very traditional, this is an excellent palette for learning form and understanding value relationships.

Similar to the first shadow-mapping exercise in the e-book, adding white to the Burnt Umber gives you a full range of tonal values to work with.

Earth colours have long been used for oil painting underpaintings because they tend to dry relatively quickly compared with many other pigments. That makes this simple monochrome setup an ideal palette for practice studies.

You could also use Winsor & Newton Galeria Pale Umber, which is a mixture of Burnt Umber and White, as a ground colour. Combined with the monochrome palette, it creates a really strong traditional starting point to experiment with.

pale-umber-winsor-newton

Pale Umber, in the student Galeria Range

Raw Umber + White

Softer and slightly cooler.

Great for subtle value shifts, especially with yellows. If you think of Raw Umber as a dark yellow, it can be a very effective colour for darkening yellows without causing colour drift. On the ‘How to paint light and shade‘ tutorial, you can see how effective Raw Umber can be as a colour neutraliser. In this tutorial, I use Cadmium Yellow Light, muted with Raw Umber, for the apple’s form.

Ultramarine Blue + White

Working with just Ultramarine Blue and White can be surprisingly difficult compared to the softer, more subdued character of Raw Umber or Burnt Umber palettes.

Ultramarine has a much stronger colour personality. Even when mixed with white, it tends to retain an intensity that can feel sharp or emotionally charged on the canvas.

Earth colours naturally sit in a quieter, more neutral range. They are forgiving, understated, and often easier to organise into harmonious value relationships. Ultramarine, by contrast, demands more control.

Self Portrait, 1901 by Picasso

Blue also carries a particularly strong emotional association. We instinctively read it both psychologically and visually. If you think of Pablo Picasso and his famous Blue Period, which followed the death of a close friend, you can see how an entire emotional atmosphere can emerge from the dominance of a single pigment family.

Historically, intense blues were precious and symbolic. Ultramarine itself was once made from Lapis Lazuli and was more expensive than gold. Often reserved for the most important passages in paintings.

Some artists became fascinated not just with blue as a colour, but with its psychological and sensory effect. Yves Klein was obsessed with the immersive intensity of blue and wanted blue itself to become the subject.

Klein worked with a chemist to develop a special synthetic resin binder that preserved the raw brilliance of the pigment particles.

This became known as International Klein Blue, or IKB.

Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Sienna + White

Adding Burnt Sienna introduces a warm orange earth colour that beautifully balances the coolness of Ultramarine Blue. Suddenly, you can begin moving between warm and cool mixes, and an entirely new world of colour relationships opens up. It’s a wonderful way to discover just how far a painting can be pushed using only a handful of pigments.

In the still-life jug demo, ‘How to Paint Warm and Cool‘, the entire painting is created using just these two colours plus white, making it an excellent practice exercise.

When working with a single pigment, your decisions are mostly tonal. You are essentially thinking: “Do I add white to lighten the value, or more pigment to darken it?” But once you introduce a complementary pair, such as Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna, you add another layer of subtlety to the process.

Now, as you move up and down the value scale, you are also controlling temperature.

One mixture will lean cooler, another warmer. This naturally develops your sensitivity to colour balance without becoming overly complicated.

The beauty of the palette is its simplicity. If a mixture becomes too cool, you can gently warm it with Burnt Sienna. If it starts to feel too warm or heavy, Ultramarine Blue will cool and neutralise it again. There is a lovely balannce between the two pigments, which is why complementary colour schemes can feel so harmonious and satisfying to paint with.

Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Sienna + Yellow Ochre + White

Building on the Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna palette, introducing a muted yellow such as Yellow Ochre opens up an even broader range of colour possibilities while still keeping the palette controlled.

Yellow Ochre is a warm earth yellow, so rather than creating highly saturated colour mixes, it gently expands the upper warm range of the palette.

When you lighten Burnt Sienna with white alone, the mixtures naturally tend to move towards pinks and warm reds. By introducing Yellow Ochre, you can shift those lighter passages towards warmer golden tones instead, creating a much stronger sense of sunlight, warmth, and atmospheric light across a painting.

This becomes especially useful in illuminated areas of a still life or landscape, where you want the light to feel warm rather than chalky or cool. Even a small touch of Yellow Ochre can beautifully soften and enrich lighter mixtures.

Another advantage is how it affects your greens.

When mixed with Ultramarine Blue, Yellow Ochre creates muted, natural greens rather than vivid, overpowering ones. Strong greens can easily dominate a limited palette and draw attention away from the painting’s structure, but these softer earth greens remain subtle and harmonious.

So rather than expanding the palette into lots of bright colours, Yellow Ochre gently widens the range while still keeping everything connected and restrained. It is also excellent for warming toned grounds and coloured backgrounds, adding a soft glow beneath the painting surface.

Yellow Ochre + Ivory Black  + White

If you’d like to take the idea of muted yellows and greens further, then the simple combination of Yellow Ochre and Ivory Black can be really effective. What makes the palette so interesting is that the Ivory Black begins to act like a muted blue, allowing you to mix very subtle, restrained green hues when combined with the Yellow Ochre. Also, it gets you used to using black in a palette without being scared it will ruin the painting!

As you introduce white into the mixtures, you’ll notice how the black naturally cools the colour range, while the Yellow Ochre gently warms it back again. The overall effect remains soft and subdued. You won’t achieve highly saturated colour with this palette, but that is precisely its strength.

It’s an excellent way to study how desaturated colour often appears in distant landscapes, shadow passages, and atmospheric effects, which can also be a very useful approach for initially mapping out a painting before introducing stronger colour accents.

Venetian Red + White

Using a colour like Venetian Red, or another muted warm earth red, can create a beautiful old-master tonal quality. These pigments feel particularly natural for subjects such as pottery, terracotta, brickwork, roof tiles, and warm architectural studies because the colour family already sits close to the subject matter.

But the real lesson lies in the tonal value of the pigment.

Unlike Ultramarine Blue, which has a naturally deep dark value range, Venetian Red isn’t as dark. It simply cannot reach the same depth of darkness. At first, this can feel limiting, but it actually teaches an incredibly important skill: value compression.

When working with a compressed-value pigment, you begin to realise that painting is not about copying every value literally. Instead, you are organising relationships between values.

If you observe an area that appears extremely dark in your subject, but your pigment physically cannot reach that darkness, you have to reinterpret the entire value structure around it. You begin asking:

“If this is the darkest my pigment can go, how do I adjust the surrounding lights and mid-tones so the painting still reads convincingly?”

That process develops a sensitivity to tonal relationships. You start to understand that a convincing sense of light and shadow comes less from absolute darkness and more from the relative contrast between values.

In this landscape painting lesson on tonal value compression, you can see how values become closer and closer together as they recede into the distance.

This is one of the reasons limited palettes and compressed tonal studies can be so valuable. They force you to simplify, organise, and truly understand the structure of light rather than relying on strong contrasts or highly saturated colour.

How do you bring the palettes together?

Terracotta-pots-acrylic-tutorial.jpg

What I love about the terracotta plant pot tutorial is that it shows how these simplified colour ideas can move beyond exercises and become part of a more developed, finished painting.

Before the painting starts, the composition is reduced to a few key shapes and value relationships. This is exactly the same mindset as working with a single object repeatedly. You are reducing visual noise so you can concentrate on the key parts of the composition.

The next stage is the drawing.

In the tutorial, there is an emphasis on getting the ellipses accurate because plant pots can quickly feel awkward if the curves become uneven or overly sharp. Again, this connects directly back to the idea of repetition and familiar forms. When you paint pots, mugs or bowls repeatedly, you begin to train your eye to recognise subtle shape shifts instinctively.

But perhaps the most useful lesson in the tutorial is the colour structure itself.

Here is the palette:

  • Titanium White
  • Burnt Umber
  • Cadmium Yellow Light
  • Venetian Red
  • Violet Iron Oxide
  • Burnt Sienna
  • Raw Umber
  • Ultramarine Blue

Although the finished painting appears colourful, the palette is actually very restrained.
The painting starts with:

Burnt Sienna + Ultramarine Blue + Burnt Umber + White

Then the terracotta oranges are balanced against muted violets in the brickwork.

Violet Iron Oxide + Venetian Red + White

The foreground is painted with

Violet Iron Oxide + Ultramarine Blue + White

Terracotta-pots-brickwork

So you can start to see how the different areas of the painting are built up using these mini compressed colour palettes.

That is why exercises with monochrome palettes, complementary pairs and muted colour families are so valuable. They are not separate from “real painting.” They are the training ground that allows more developed paintings like the terracotta pots to feel cohesive and controlled rather than chaotic.

The painting may look complex at first glance, but underneath it is built on very simple decisions:

  • Simplified composition
  • Controlled values
  • Muted colour relationships
  • Limited palette harmony
  • Warm versus cool contrast
  • Selective saturation

In many ways, this is what mature colour handling really is.

Not adding more and more colour, but understanding which colours to leave out.

Continue ReadingOn the Wisdom of Colour Schemes

The Simple Secret to Rapid Progress in Your Paintings

One of the fastest ways to improve as an artist is to get into the habit of checking your own work as you make it.

That might sound obvious, but it is one of the biggest differences between a beginner and a more experienced painter.

A beginner often keeps painting, hoping the piece will somehow come together. If anything, desperately picking up the pace when things start to go ‘out’.

A more experienced artist stops. Then checks, then adjusts.

That practice changes everything.

Progress in painting is not about learning new techniques. It is about learning to see. The more accurately you can judge your own work, the less dependent you are on guesswork or hoping for the best.

You start to spot small problems before they become big ones. You notice when a drawing is leaning, when a value is too light, when a shape is too wide.

And once you can see the problem, you can usually fix it.

That is why artists have always used simple checking tools to sharpen their eyes. Not because they lacked skill, but because they understood something important:

Your brain gets used to what it is looking at.

After staring at a painting for too long, mistakes can begin to disappear. The wonky ellipse looks normal. The portrait that is slightly ‘off’ starts to feel convincing. The unbalanced landscape composition seems ok, because you’ve looked at it for an hour.

A mirror breaks that familiarity.

It reflects the painting back to you in a way your brain has not yet memorised.

And suddenly, you can see it again.

Continue ReadingThe Simple Secret to Rapid Progress in Your Paintings

How To Paint Silver Reflections in Acrylics (Step-By-Step)

Will Kemp, Tea with Nicholson, Acrylic on Canvas Board, 20 x 25cm

How to Paint Reflective Silver with a Limited Palette

nicholson-tea-caddy-pallant-house

One of the highlights of seeing William Nicholson’s still life paintings at Pallant House last week, was discovering a small display plinth with the actual silver tea caddy he used in a few of his still life paintings.

Continue ReadingHow To Paint Silver Reflections in Acrylics (Step-By-Step)

A Painter’s Afternoon: William Nicholson at Pallant House Gallery, Chichester

pallant-house-chichester

It’s always a pleasure to visit a gallery that feels so naturally in tune with the kind of paintings you already enjoy, and Pallant House in Chichester feels exactly like that.

The gallery is situated within a Grade I-listed Queen Anne townhouse, with an impressive modern extension. It creates a comfortable mix of the period beauty of a townhouse, built in 1712 for Henry Lisbon Peckham and his wife, Elizabeth Albery, and the contemporary galleries of the new wing.

Continue ReadingA Painter’s Afternoon: William Nicholson at Pallant House Gallery, Chichester

A Few Kitchen Countertop Water Mixable Oil Sketches from the Week

Morning class,

This week, I’ve been focusing on the simplicity of set-up and essential techniques.

Sometimes you want to get painting quickly, so I’ve propped a blank canvas or board behind my subject on the kitchen countertop, where the light was streaming in.

I used Oil Paper from a pad, just a handful of water-mixable oils, one water-mixable thinner for dilution, and a couple of brushes.

Eucalyptus Leaves

Continue ReadingA Few Kitchen Countertop Water Mixable Oil Sketches from the Week

Student Success for December, January & February 2026 (Over 100+ artworks!)

Morning class!

What an incredibly creative few months it’s been for students working through the courses and lessons. From the first-ever paintings taking shape on the canvas, to one student revisiting the same lesson ten years later! And others are going on to win awards at exhibitions. Many of these successes are linked to free tutorials, so you can follow along yourself.

Even if you’re returning to something you’ve tried before, you’ll often spot something new the second time around.

Hope you enjoy the gallery.

Continue ReadingStudent Success for December, January & February 2026 (Over 100+ artworks!)

I Should Have Bought This Years Ago: Art Studio Storage Ideas

HB leads

I was looking for the replacement leads for my mechanical pencil.

Just leads.

I knew I had put them somewhere sensible. Somewhere memorable. Somewhere safe. I just had no idea where that somewhere was.

I asked Vanessa.

“Have you seen my 0.5mm Uni leads? Little plastic case. White top?”

Vanessa has an almost supernatural ability to locate the things I misplace. She seems to carry an internal map of my chaos, but even she looked doubtful this time.

I checked the drawers. Lifted sketchbooks. Opened tins.

I briefly wondered whether they had migrated to the kitchen, victims of one of my “I’ll just put this here for a moment” decisions.

Nothing.

Amazon offered hope. £4.19 for 24. One click, and the problem would disappear.

But I didn’t want tomorrow’s leads. I wanted the ones I already owned.

A small stick of lost graphite was the moment it caught up with me. The moment I had to admit that my art materials storage “system” was not a system at all. It was more like a leaning tower of creative good intentions, a stack of brushes and a precariously balanced tear-off palette.

It’s hard to be creative when you can’t find a pencil.

Continue ReadingI Should Have Bought This Years Ago: Art Studio Storage Ideas

How to Loosen up Your Paintings (structure vs spontaneity)

how to loosen up your painting

One of the most common questions students ask me is: “How can I paint looser?” Many students want to know how to loosen up their painting, especially if they tend to get stuck in careful details.

But loose painting is rarely the starting point.

In my experience, what often looks loose on the surface is actually controlled simplification underneath. Learning to paint with control first makes a far stronger  ‘loose’ painting later on.

Messy and loose can look similar at a glance.

Structurally, they are completely different.

Loose painting is confident editing.
Messy painting is an undecided execution.

That difference in how they are constructed changes everything.

The hidden structure

If you look at painters like Sargent or Sorolla, their work, on the surface, feels fresh and spontaneous. The brushstrokes seem almost casual.

But slow it down.

The drawing is solid.
The values are clear.
The edges are intentional.

And also, let’s not forget the scale. When you’re first starting out and most probably painting small, 20 x 25cm, or in sketchbooks, you can flick through images online and think, ” Wow, how do those paintings look so luscious and painterly, yet still hold that accuracy?

But the scale of the painting can really help.

Continue ReadingHow to Loosen up Your Paintings (structure vs spontaneity)

The Practice That Can Quietly Slip Away

I have students who email me saying they’ve painted in the past, but are taking a break.

They still read and enjoy the tutorials, but don’t feel like they could give them a go. They don’t feel they could start again because they’re back at ground zero.

But I want you to know that hesitancy to start painting again has nothing to do with your skills.

You know how to mix colours, and you’ve got an empty canvas ready to go!

What’s gone is your belief that it’ll be good.

This January, I’ve had tons of household stuff to catch up on and new courses I’m researching, but alongside all that, I’ve been putting time aside to paint daily.

But what happens when the day doesn’t go to plan?

You miss one or two days, and it doesn’t change much.

But when you’ve missed a week, something begins to shift.

What about a month? A decade?

What I’ve discovered through my own practice is that the barrier to returning to painting isn’t lost skill—it’s lost confidence.

The Forgetting Curve and the Confidence Gap

We’ve previously looked at the forgetting curve, which shows us that we forget new knowledge at a surprisingly quick rate.

But this is something different.

The longer you wait, the more the psychological pressure builds.

It’s irrational.

Anxiety builds to such a point that it becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy.

The Procrastinating Painter

Timothy A. Pychyl, PhD, author of ‘Solving the Procrastination Puzzle’, is a procrastination researcher.

Through his research, he’s found that putting things off isn’t really about not having the time to do them, but about avoiding the perceived negative emotions that will come with the thing you’re procrastinating on.

“Procrastination isn’t a time management problem; it’s an emotional management problem. We have negative emotions attached to some tasks….we feel frustration, boredom, resentment or anxiety. By putting off the task, we put off those emotions, and that’s the crazy self-defeating nature of it all.”

– Timothy A. Pychyl (https://maryannjacobsen.com/stop-procrastinating-with-tim-a-pychyl-podcast/

We’re avoiding the negative emotion that we’ve suddenly become terrible artists!

Miss one day and you’re a painter who took a break.

Miss a month, and you become someone who used to paint.

Build Evidence, Not Motivation

Keeping a record of your past work matters.

It can be a quick snap on your phone (Here’s how to take better iPhone shots of your paintings) or one of the pieces you’re most proud of displayed where you can see it.

When doubt creeps in after a break, you need something tangible to look back on, proof that you were once in that zone, that you did create something you were proud of.

And this leans into another strange thing that happens with creative work: when you finish a painting, you immediately see only the flaws. Every wrong mix, every misaligned feature. You’re intensely critical.

So it makes it even harder to come back to your paintings after a break, because alongside the doubt, you will see the work more harshly when you’ve first finished it.

However, come back a week later, you’ll look at the same piece and think, “Who painted that?” You’re genuinely surprised by its quality.

This happens to all artists.

How to beat procrastination with Procatalepsis

Procatalepsis comes from the Greek: pro (before) + katalepsis (seizing or grasping).

When debating a point, it’s a way of highlighting your own shortcomings before your opponent can voice them towards you.

You’re doing the same thing, except the opponent is your own resistance.

This is particularly effective against procrastination because procrastination often disguises itself as legitimate concern. Your brain says, “I should wait until I’m more prepared” or “Maybe tomorrow when I’m fresher”, and these sound reasonable.

Here’s how you might use it for returning to portrait painting:

“I know the proportions are going to feel off in the first few attempts. The eyes won’t sit right, the nose will be too long, or the mouth too small. That’s not me forgetting how to paint, that’s my eye being sharper than my hand right now, which means my eye still works. The hand will catch up.”

You’re facing the fact that, of course, this won’t be your most accurate painting ever, how could it be!

By anticipating both your artistic doubts and your delay tactics, you can move forward.

Confidence Comes From the Work Itself

If you’re in the midst of an artist block, the answer isn’t to think harder about what you’ve lost or to wait to be inspired. It’s to reduce the friction of starting again.

Pick up the brush.

Copy something simple.

Let your hands remember what your mind has temporarily forgotten.

You’re not just practising the skill. You’re practising the courage to show up again, even when the distance to where you want to be feels insurmountable.

Your painting skills aren’t lost; you just need the evidence to believe in them again.

Will

 

Continue ReadingThe Practice That Can Quietly Slip Away

The Midnight Sketch Club

Morning class,

The best thing I’ve done for my studio practice this year happens the night before I paint.

I call it the Midnight Sketch Club.

What separates a painting that ‘works’ from one that doesn’t is usually decided long before the first brushstroke goes down.

You need to recognise what to look out for, where your natural tendencies can lead to mistakes and how the values will work.

And the best way to figure all that out?

A sketch and a value study.

But most beginners don’t do them. Because they think they are boring.

Now, I know what you’re thinking because I do this too.

You see a subject, you get excited, and you think, “Right, I’m just going to dive straight in. I don’t need to do a sketch first—I’ll figure it out as I go.”

And then three hours in, you’re wrestling with a painting that’s fighting you every step of the way because you didn’t take twenty minutes to work out the problems beforehand.

On the Venice Light and Shadow Course, we do small tonal value studies before committing to a larger-scale painting.

On the How to Paint a Peony Course, we paint a simplified ‘poster study’ of the peony before committing to the main painting.

It’s like running through a dress rehearsal before the main performance.

But here’s what I’ve started doing instead.

The night before I paint, usually around midnight, because I’m a bit of a night owl, I’ll spend 15-30 minutes sketching out the subject.

Nothing fancy.

Just getting the composition down, mapping out the value structure, seeing where the darks and lights fall, and figuring out where the problems are going to crop up. It might be colour notes, or things I noticed.

You can do this with actual physical sketches, or on an iPad if you prefer digital. Doesn’t matter. What matters is you’re thinking about the painting before you’re in the painting.

And here’s the magic part: you sleep on it.

You give your brain a whole night to process what you learned. You step back from the subject. And when you wake up the next morning, something interesting happens: you’re actually more excited to paint it, not less. Because now, you’re not walking into the unknown.

You know what you’re doing.

You know what to look out for.

You’ve already solved half the problems while you were asleep.

The preparation is the work

It’s a bit like how film directors don’t just show up on set and wing it. They spend months in pre-production, storyboarding every shot (essentially a hand-drawn version of the final movie), working out every angle, so that when it’s time to actually film, they’re not figuring things out; they’re executing a plan.

Pixar spent over 2.5 years storyboarding Toystory before they animated a single frame.

That preparation is the work. The final painting, the final film, the final animation is the execution of all that thinking.

Why you need tea & biscuits

My brothers and sisters think I spend my days lounging around in some sort of artistic reverie, wafting a paintbrush toward a canvas in a state of internal bliss.

What we’re actually doing when we paint is solving hundreds of tiny problems, one after another, making decision after decision after decision. Which edge to soften? Where does that value shift? Is this colour too warm? Should that brushstroke follow the form or cut across it? It’s exhausting.

That’s why we need all the tea and biscuits afterwards, we’re recovering from genuine mental effort!

And this is exactly why my Midnight Sketch Club works so well. By sketching the night before, you’re solving a huge chunk of those problems in advance.

Now you can actually focus on the painting itself, rather than burning through your decision-making energy just trying to figure out where things go.

I was listening to a podcast, and Darren Cahill, co-coach of the current world No. 1 tennis player, Jannik Sinner, discussed Roger Federer’s work ethic.

“I did a week with Roger Federer and was stunned how hard he worked on the practice court. Four and five-hour blocks on the practice court. I never knew this about Roger because if you go and watch Roger warming up for a match, it looks like he’s going out to play with a country club, or he’s just slapping the ball around, barely out of his feet.”

He said:

“Darren, all the hard work is done in the lead-up. I just have to feel the ball and feel good about my game. Everything is done away from the public’s eyes. The actual match court is just for show. It’s when you are practising inside a stadium with zero people watching, that’s what really matters, and that’s where you’re putting in all that hard work. If you can accomplish that, then you can accomplish some great things.” – Roger Federer

So sketch at midnight

Map the values. Find the problems. Then sleep on it.

I think you’ll be surprised at how much better your paintings turn out when you’ve given yourself that gift of preparation.

Have a great evening,

Will

Continue ReadingThe Midnight Sketch Club

Why Copying Other Artists Leads to Your Own Unique Style

Left: The Jester Don John of Austria, Diego Velázquez. 1632–1633.
Right: Buffoon Don Juan of Austria, John Singer Sargent. 1879.

You’re six months into painting, with a couple of decent Monet studies under your belt, and you’re starting to experiment with Van Gogh’s impasto brush strokes.

A friend walks by your easel: “Oh, you’re copying again?”

That word, copying, lands like an accusation.

It doesn’t feel like “real painting,” does it? Real painters have an original vision. Real painters have their own unique style. Real painters don’t spend Tuesday afternoons recreating someone else’s portrait from 1885.

Except they do. They did. They all did.

Continue ReadingWhy Copying Other Artists Leads to Your Own Unique Style

How to (Actually) Achieve Your Art Goals in 2026

Last week, I sat down to write new goals for the year ahead.

Eating healthier, moving more (that came up a lot!), and I noticed myself saying something I’ve said many times before. “This year I’m going to paint more plein air.”

It sounds reasonable. But I’ve learnt that with painting and drawing, more isn’t the thing that moves you forward. Focus is.

Alignment over Inspiration

If you want to reach your art goals in 2026, you need better art alignment.

Last week, we talked about how any mark you make is progress. That still stands.

But when you have a specific goal, it helps to be specific with your practice too.

If portraits are your goal, you don’t need to “earn” your way there by painting still lives first. Even a small, focused study, like an ear, can move you closer to where you want to be.

I made the mistake of telling my sister about my resolutions, and she phoned yesterday to check up on me! I made a fumbled excuse about it being too cold to go outside to paint (I know some readers will laugh who are in -25 degrees, so appreciate my excuse is unfounded!)

So today I’ve propped an easel in the kitchen warmth, looking out the window. Heating on and tea by my side.

It’s a small move towards plein air.

Reading an article, watching a video, or reading a book counts as research, but it isn’t the same as actually practising drawing or painting.

Time under Tension

Instead of asking whether you’ll paint more portraits this year, try planning the kind of day that, repeated often enough, would make improvement inevitable.

It’s usually not a matter of finding the time, but of doing the thing you said you wanted to do in the time you set aside for it, without letting yourself drift into something else.

As the year unfolds, check for alignment. Treat new methods as learning, not success or failure. Create in ways that energise you. And be kinder to your artistic self.

Like drawing a portrait, a slight adjustment in direction can change everything.

Wishing you a calm, creative New Year ahead.

Will

Continue ReadingHow to (Actually) Achieve Your Art Goals in 2026

The In-Between Days: How Tries Become Marks, Marks Become Evidence

Winter Walk, December 2025

As the pace softens and the new year comes into view, there’s often a quiet sense of possibility in the air.

It’s like a mirror has been held up to what you’d promise yourself you’d do – if only you had the time.

This is when expectations and comparison creeps in.

Goals grow too big too fast, and before you know it, the idea of making this your “best art year ever” quietly freezes you in place.

So what do you do next?

Experiment without expectation.

Painting a wall is better than waiting for your next masterpiece. One colour on the page is better than agonising over the perfect nineteenth-century palette.

Doodle, draw, paint, make. If you are putting a mark to a page, you are creating.

Confidence does not arrive first. It follows the work.

Small, regular creative acts keep the wheels turning. Most breakthroughs happen while you are simply showing up, not forcing results.

A rough value study counts.

A colour swatch counts.

An unfinished sketch counts.

Four words that help

“I’ll try it anyway.”

I can’t draw an accurate portrait. “I’ll try it anyway.
I don’t have all the colours for the lesson. “I’ll try it anyway.
I feel uneasy sketching outside. “I’ll try it anyway.”

The tries become marks, and the marks become evidence.

Every sketch, every mix, every imperfect attempt quietly proves you are becoming the artist you want to be.

Picture yourself a year from now with a thousand small pieces of ‘artistic evidence’ behind you. Growth becomes unavoidable.

So step into that uneasy space before the new year. This is where artistic confidence is made.

Wishing you a fantastic, creative new year ahead,

Will

 

Continue ReadingThe In-Between Days: How Tries Become Marks, Marks Become Evidence

NEW! Beginners Oil Painting Course

Morning class, I’d like to introduce you to a new beginner’s oil painting course.

Welcome to my NEW Traditional Oil Painting Course for Beginners!

Over 5+ hours of tuition

This is a simple, easy-to-follow downloadable video course with over 5 hours of tuition, where you will discover the essentials of creating an oil painting. It has been designed as a step-by-step, rounded learning experience that brings together all my knowledge as a student, painter, and teacher.

What’s in the Beginners Oil Painting Course?

  •  5 x traditional oil painting demonstrations, taking you step-by-step from preparation and mixing and matching colours through to the final brush strokes. ✅
  • 16 downloadable video lessons, split into separate chapters that follow on sequentially.✅
  • Over 5 hours of detailed video instruction so that you can follow along at your own pace.✅
  • Downloadable reference JPEG images, line drawings, and a full materials list.✅
  • Lifetime access, downloadable on separate devices.✅

You receive more than five hours of video lessons, reference images, my drawings, colour swatches, and lifetime access with a one-time payment.

Learn at your own pace and complete your first oil paintings with a clear and structured approach.

You will complete five guided studies using downloadable reference images.

  • We begin with a wipe-out study that lets you carve out the form like a sculptor.
  • Then we move onto a limited palette jug study, a thin couche layer that allows the paint to blend and flow across the surface.
  • In the monochrome cup study, you learn the importance of value and brush choice using an alla prima approach.
  • The lemon study introduces a four-stage, layered, indirect approach using the fat-over-lean method and teaches you to think ahead to make the most of your glazing.
  • Our final study is a classical still life of figs on a plate. This tutorial enables us to build layers and expand our colour mixing, working with a split primary palette and balancing realism with impressionism through painterly brush strokes.

If you’ve ever wanted to start oil painting but don’t know where to begin, what materials you need, how to clean your brushes or how to avoid muddy colours, you are not alone!

Oils can feel confusing at first.

I help complete beginners learn to paint using classical techniques. I want to give you a clear plan so you can start oil painting with confidence.

Oil paints are a fantastic medium. They dry slowly, giving you more time to refine shapes, create smooth transitions, and build subtle shifts in light. With the right foundation, you can avoid the usual frustrations and enjoy the process.

When you’re first starting with traditional oils, there’s a lot to take in! To avoid overwhelm, in this course, I want to address some of the most common questions to help aspiring oil painters understand the theory and practice of painting in this medium.

Each of the five painting studies builds on the last and teaches a different approach, from direct painting to an indirect classical method.

By focusing on still life subjects, you’ll gain confidence with setups that you can easily find at home to continue your studies.

I trained in classical oil painting in Florence, Italy, and have over 15 years of online teaching experience and more than 300,000 YouTube followers. My focus is always on practical methods that give repeatable results.

Designed with the home studio oil painter in mind

On this Beginner’s oil painting course, we’re keeping it simple and practical, with an approach designed to work at home.

You only need a small brush kit (from Princeton Brush Company) a limited palette of pigments, minimal tools, and a safe home setup. The short video lessons show each stage step-by-step so you can follow along without feeling overwhelmed.

You will learn how to prepare a canvas, see values, avoid muddy colours, control edges, and create the right consistency for your paint. We cover the essentials of traditional oil painting: Underpainting, fat over lean, glazing, simple colour mixing, and when it comes to materials, I want you to understand the options available, from quick-drying oil paint to creating your own medium recipes.

If you work from a small room at home, the idea of Traditional Oil paints and the use of strong-smelling solvents and mediums is a real consideration.

But you do not have to use solvents! You can paint with oils straight from the tube, adding nothing to them.

Mediums and solvents, such as turpentine or odourless mineral spirits, are optional; they simply change how the paint behaves. So you could dilute with a natural oil, like walnut oil, or with a solvent-free gel. Think of them as ways to tweak consistency rather than requirements; it’s about balancing paint handling, drying times, sensitivity and where you are painting.

In the course, I demonstrate using a low-odour solvent and work in a well-ventilated space. Throughout the course, I’ve tried to cover less toxic alternatives. A guide to a safe working environment is included.

beginners oil painting course

What makes this beginner’s oil painting course different?

  • Calm and methodical, which builds skill in the right order.
  • Real-time decision making explained clearly as you paint with me
  • Simple printables and references, so practice is easy to repeat.
  • Both alla prima and indirect methods are taught.

So grab a brew, maybe a couple of biscuits, and join me on this Absolute Beginner’s Traditional Oil Painting Course to explore the magic of oils and surprise yourself with what you can create.

You might also enjoy these articles:
Oil Painting Terms for Beginners
Water-mixable Oils vs Traditional Oils

Continue ReadingNEW! Beginners Oil Painting Course